*This post may contain sponsored and/or affiliate content. All views and comments are my own.
Lately I have been doing a lot with different types of metallic finishes and projects. I know there are tons of products available to create different metallic finishes, I’ve used my fair share of them too. The problem I’ve found in the past is being able to use them with other products and on other surfaces. If they work well on wood, then they usually didn’t work well on metal or on top of other products. It gets costly having to buy special primers, the paints, then a glaze or activator and yet again a special finish to protect all that hard work.
So when Southern Blenders sent me their metallics collections I was excited to see what they could do. I really wanted to push them to the limit and see how well these products worked in several different applications, with other products as well.
I’ve created patina finishes several different ways over the years and copper is usually a two part reactive finish. It normally requires chemicals and waiting for a reaction. To be honest I’ve never really liked the look it gave, that chalky blue/green corroded copper wasn’t appealing to me. I eliminated the entire chemical process all together. I also opted for a little more of an authentic copper patina look.
I built these table legs using 4×4 dimensional cedar lumber and prepped them with a light planing and smooth sanding.
I then painted two coats of Southern Blenders metallic paint in Copper Nails.
I then took Aged Patina and mixed in a tiny bit of Green with Envy and thinned slightly with water. Using it as a wash, I brush a coat over the entire surface wiping off the excess with a damp rag as I went. I let the wash drip/run down some areas of the legs to mimic a natural patina look.
Once that was dry I pulled out a few of the metallic gilding powders and went to work. I use my hands and just jump right in, but if you don’t like the mess old makeup brushes work great.
I’m using Grizzly and Burnt Gold. I just tapped out a little on my work area and used my hands to mix/rub the gilding powders all over the table legs.
Once I had the table legs covered, I used an old rag to gently buff the colors together.
I sealed with a few coats of Varathane soft matte for protection. Here are the finished legs before being attached to the table top.
The top of the table I built using ambrosia maple. I left a slight beveled edge to the edges of the board when they were joined to create a small valley. The table top already had one large knot that would need to be filled, so I decided that I would match the legs slightly by using a copper color for the epoxy. I started by taping off the underside of the table under the knot and along all the seems to prevent leaks.
I’m using Clear Cast two part epoxy. This is a UV protective epoxy that when cured will stay clear. In this case I’m coloring the epoxy, but I still like the UV protection so it won’t discolor later. Start by mixing 1:1 ratio of both parts for 3 minutes, making sure the scrape the sides and bottom well.
After mixing well for 3 minutes, mix a small amount (a pinch is more than enough for 1 cup mixed epoxy) of Burnt Gold gilding powder.
Mix again for another 3 minutes, making sure to scrape the sides and bottom well.
Then using a craft stick or your mixing cup, pour a thin sealing layer of epoxy along your surfaces to be filled. This first coat of epoxy is to seal the wood and prevent it from releasing air into the filled areas creating bubbles. Let this first layer dry 4-6 hours before adding your full layer of epoxy that will fill in the areas completely.
Let that cure 24 hours. Once the epoxy is set completely, use a sharp block plane or scraper to remove the excess. You can also tape off the areas before pouring to avoid over fill, I just find it easier to come back with a plane to get a nice smooth finish.
Once I had the excess removed, I sanded the entire top up to 220. I finished with Real Milk Paint pure tung oil in a soaking application and added a light coat of Daddy Van’s Hemp Oil for a little sheen.
Using Metallic Epoxy in Molds
While I was playing with the copper epoxy mix I decided to grab some silicone molds we had already. I followed the same steps above for mixing the epoxy, but used Burnt Gold and Emerald Green gilding powders.
These are silicone molds and don’t need a release spray. If you’re using other types of molds make sure to check if the mold requires a mold release sprayed before filling.
I filled the mermaid tail body with the Emerald Green mixed epoxy first and let it setup about 30 minutes before filling the rest with Burnt Gold mixed epoxy.
Let your molds cure overnight before popping them out. You can buff your cured epoxy with a cotton buffer attachment on a Dremel for more shine, or leave them like I have.
I’m really enjoying working with these products and their versatility. The new Southern Blenders Pearly Paste is turning out to be another quality product from them.
If you missed my post on using this gorgeous paste in paper mache, you can find the link below.